Building an entire (cloud) gaming computer in only 2U of a 10-inch custom rack
Overview
This page describes the process of designing and 3D printing a custom case to fit the PC parts, and setting up a gaming-capable computer in the case.
Initial Objectives and Motivations
After building my 10-inch minirack earlier this year and filling it with networking/server gear, I still had available space in the rack. Meanwhile, my 8-year-old gaming computer was becoming outdated and no longer fit my needs : since I'm not home as often anymore, I couldn't use it regularly. I needed a solution that would let me game from anywhere while avoiding taking up more floor space in my already cramped living area.
I decided to use the remaining rack space to build a remote gaming platform that I could access from anywhere with a decent Internet connection.
Research and Conceptualization
The main challenges I had to tackle throughout this project were as follows:
- Fit everything into 2U worth of 10-inch rack space: motherboard w/CPU/RAM/SSD/CPU cooler, graphics card, power supply (many designs require a separate mounting solution for the PSU)
- Ensure structural integrity of the case to prevent it from sagging/breaking
- Ensure heat can be properly eliminated (avoid thermal throttling)
- Get decent enough performance from the computer to play recent games at up to 1440p@60FPS
- Create a design that can fit in a 256×256×256mm 3D printing volume (the biggest I could have access to)
I searched the web for inspiration and found two particularly helpful resources:
- Mini ITX case for 10-inch rack - I adapted elements from this design for the front plate and motherboard standoffs
- This YouTube video - Guided my component selection strategy
Case Design and Selection of PC Parts
I developed both aspects simultaneously, since the component dimensions influenced the case design, and the case constraints determined which parts I could use (primarily considering size and structural strength).
Case
The case was created by reusing elements from the existing design mentioned in the previous section, and the rest I did myself, including:
- A place to mount a small 500W PSU
- Side walls with better strength
- Hexagonal ventilation holes on the front and sides
- Stronger bottom plate with cutout for M.2 SSD at the back of the motherboard
- Adapted all holes on the design to fit 3mm long heat-set inserts for M3 screws (except for the PSU screw holes, which were made as simple countersunk screw holes, as per PSU specification)
This was my first experience with parametric CAD using FreeCAD. The learning curve was steep, and the project became laggy due to the complex geometry of the ventilation holes. Despite these challenges, I'm satisfied with the final design : it provides adequate cooling and structural integrity while fitting within a 256×256×256mm print volume. While I know the design could be refined, it's a solid starting point given my beginner CAD skills.
The 3D files can be downloaded on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2145097-mini-itx-case-for-10-inch-rack-with-psu-sff-gpu#profileId-2323961
PS: If you want to support projects like this, please like the model on MakerWorld! Their rewards system helps me finance the materials I need to build the prototypes for projects like this one.
PC Parts
To build the PC, I mostly tried to benefit from Black Friday/holiday deals, in order to save as much money as possible while still getting a good build. Main highlights are:
- CPU platform: I went with an AM5 platform to ensure I can upgrade to a more recent processor if needed.
- RAM: Since AM5 performs best with dual-channel memory, I directly went with 32GB, as it future-proofs the build for a few years.
- GPU: There are only very few half-height GPUs. Thankfully, none of the interesting options were longer than the 185mm limit created by the maximum 3D printing build volume. Please note the Intel Arc Pro B50 16GB may be a better option than the current Nvidia offerings if AI/workstation performance is your priority, but it is not as good for gaming.
- PSU: The only power supply I could find to power the GPU I chose was from a very niche company called HDPlex. Despite its price, this build wouldn't have been possible had this PSU not existed.
- Storage: NVMe M.2 SSD to save space
- CPU cooling: Some vertical space is needed for the hot air to be able to escape, so it was important to pick a cooler with good TDP in relation to vertical space.
Final Parts List
Case
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Sunlu White PETG - 1kg | 22.99€ |
| M3 heat-set inserts, 3mm long (x120) | 8.99€ |
| Box of M3 screws (countersunk & round head) | 10.99€ |
| 12mm power button | 2.95€ |
| Total | 45.93€ |
Computer
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| CPU: Ryzen 5 7500F | 107.58€ |
| Motherboard: SOYO B650 ITX (This is CRAP! Don't buy it, more in the following section) | 101.64€ |
| RAM: 2×16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5, 6000MT/s, CL36 | 128.00€ |
| SSD: 1TB Kioxia Exceria Pro | 70.55€ |
| GPU: Gigabyte RTX 4060 LP 8GB | 316.00€ |
| PSU: HDPlex GaN 500W | 166.25€ |
| CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X47 Full Copper | 40.90€ |
| Total | 930.82€ |
Printing and Assembling the Case and PC
Once I had all the parts and I was sure about the design, I went to my local fablab to print the case. The first 4 attempts failed due to improper bed adhesion. I had to tweak a lot of parameters to finally get the print to succeed. Full details about the printing parameters can be found on the MakerWorld page for this project. I was so happy to get a successful print!
I then installed the heat-set inserts using a soldering iron, and I screwed the power button into the slot.
Mounting the PC parts to the case was the easy part now. Thanks to my rigorous design process, all dimensions were correct, so the assembly went pretty smoothly. Cable management was a bit of a challenge in such a small enclosure, but I think I managed to do a decent job using some zip ties.
I was then able to fit the whole thing into the rack. I'm happy to report that everything fit as expected, and front-to-back sagging is minimal, at around 1 degree.
Software Setup and Why You Shouldn't Buy Crappy Chinese Hardware
Once the hardware side of the project was wrapped up and a successful first POST got me into the BIOS, it was now time to set it up as a remote gaming computer.
Here are the steps I followed:
- Enable EXPO and PBO in BIOS
- Install Windows 11. I bypassed the Microsoft account requirement using this method
- Install Windows Updates
- Install GPU drivers
- Install Afterburner and undervolt GPU using this guide: main benefits are lower power usage and fan noise
- Use Winutil to clean up the Windows install (remove telemetry, Copilot, and other Microsoft bloatware)
- Set up Apollo, a Sunshine fork, to turn it into my own cloud gaming computer
- Install and configure Moonlight on my client devices
- Install games
When I started gaming, I started experiencing crashes at unexpected moments. As I was suspecting hardware/software instability, I started troubleshooting and stress-testing using OCCT.
As it turns out, the shitty Chinese motherboard I had chosen did not support EXPO/XMP for my RAM kit, and even after painstakingly social-engineering a Chinese guy to provide me with the latest BIOS version for this motherboard, the computer would still crash when using EXPO/XMP. Do not buy crappy hardware from unknown Chinese brands!! I just learned that the hard way.
For now, I just turned off XMP/EXPO in the BIOS and accepted the corresponding performance hit. I still don't know what I'll do about it : either leave it like this or buy a new motherboard, since I am well aware my chances of getting a return on this product are zero thanks to AliExpress.
Other than that, the rest of the setup works, and it probably would have worked perfectly had I not cheaped out on my motherboard choice.
Conclusion
Aside from the motherboard/RAM compatibility mishap, I'm quite satisfied with the way this project turned out. I can play up to 1440p games wherever I want as long as my Internet connection is good enough. The case fits the rack perfectly, and the build is cheaper and more upgradeable than other rack-friendly options on the market (like the Framework Desktop).
As far as I know, this project is the only occurrence of somebody fitting an entire gaming computer in 2U of a 10-inch rack. Some other designs exist on the Internet, but all of them use another 2 slots for an ATX/SFX PSU, or a PICO PSU which cannot deliver enough power for a dedicated GPU. I'm quite proud of having managed to innovate to bring something new to the community!
2026-01-10 Update
Due to the SOYO motherboard being really disappointing, I got it refunded and replaced it with an ASROCK B650I Lightning WiFi motherboard. I recommend avoiding the SOYO motherboard altogether ! The ASROCK motherboard is much more expensive, but it allows my RAM to function at its fullest potential, and the proper BIOS / driver is a relief. However, I had to install a virtual audio device using VB-Cable Virtual Audio Device (https://vb-audio.com/Cable/) for the cloud gaming setup to work with this new motherboard, as this its drivers disable sound output unless you have another audio output connected.
For any questions about this project, please use the following Reddit thread : https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/1ptyea0/so_i_did_it_full_gaming_computer_in_2u_10_inch/ . I will try my best to answer in a timely manner :)
I want to give a special acknowledgment to the r/sffpc Reddit community for their feedback, and my two good friends TP and EB for helping me with case design and software installs respectively.